Don't hesitate to take a half-day trip to Bethlehem
Although Bethlehem is located in the Palestinian territory of the West Bank, we felt quite comfortable going there from Jerusalem. A half-day trip to Bethlehem is certainly doable, and with a little planning, you should be OK. Make sure to stay current on the political situation in the region because conditions may change unexpectedly. Overall, though, many tourists visit Bethlehem every day, so unless there is some serious unrest going on, I would not hesitate to take a half-day trip to Bethlehem.
Getting to Bethlehem
We took a public bus (#231) from the Arab bus station by the Damascus Gate and essentially in about 50 minutes we were in Bethlehem. Because Israeli citizens are not allowed to travel to what is known as Area A, you won’t be able to take an Israeli bus to Bethlehem.
Once in Bethlehem, the bus dropped us off at a busy intersection of Bab El-Zakak/Beit Jala road, still 15 minutes away from Manger Square. So, we decided to take a taxi as a hike uphill on an already hot day did not sound like a good idea. Before getting inside the taxi make sure to agree on a price with the cab driver. While the driver will most likely offer to take you to other places around Bethlehem, be polite but decisive if you are not interested.
Going through the Israeli checkpoint
Bring your passport and the blue visa card with you as you will go through Israeli passport control on the way back. It was actually quite an interesting experience. Our bus stopped at the checkpoint and an Israeli officer came onto the bus to check our passports. All Palestinians were asked to get off, so their IDs could be checked. All in all, the whole process took about 15 minutes, so we were back on our way pretty quickly. While we certainly noticed the different treatment of Palestinians and tourists at the checkpoint, two other things stood out to me. One was the Israeli West Bank wall, a controversial barrier erected by Israel supposedly as a security measure against terrorism. You will see it from the bus along the way. Secondly, the red sign warning Israeli citizens against entering Area A. It’s quite a message, I must say.
Attraction #1: The Church of the Nativity
Essentially, everyone who comes to Bethlehem comes to visit the place where Jesus was born. That was our first destination in the city as well. The taxi dropped us off right on Manger Square directly in front of the Basilica of the Nativity. It took us a moment to figure out how to enter the church – it turned out you take the little nondescript door known as the Door of Humility on the side of the church. Once inside, head towards the altar where you will see a staircase to the rock cave known as the Grotto of the Nativity. A silver star on the marble floor marks the birthplace of Jesus. Expect long lines to the cave as pilgrims from all around the world come to see this religious site. The church itself is quite interesting. In fact, it is one of the oldest churches in the world with the grotto dating back to 339 AD. Similarly to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the basilica is owned by three Christian denominations – Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, and Roman Catholic. Since 2012, the Church of the Nativity has been on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Adjacent to the basilica is a catholic Church of St. Catherine with a beautiful courtyard and a nice nativity display.
Attraction #2: The Milk Grotto
The Milk Grotto is a beautiful shrine with quite an interesting story. It is believed that after Herod ordered all baby boys to be killed, the Holy Family hid in the grotto before their escape to Egypt. A drop of breastfeeding Mary’s milk fell onto the ground and, miraculously, the cave turned white. The grotto has become a place of pilgrimage to many couples who are struggling to conceive.
Attraction #3: Manger Square
Manger Square is the center of Bethlehem, a place where both the locals and tourists congregate. A wonderful way to enjoy the square is to sit in one of its cafes, away from the crowds of the nearby churches. In addition to the Church of the Nativity which flanks the square, a beautiful Mosque of Omar sits on its western side. Apparently, it is the only mosque in the Old City of Bethlehem, a fact that surprised me. You will also find several souvenir shops, restaurants, and cafes surrounding the square.
Attraction #4: Busy streets of Bethlehem
Rather than taking a taxi back to the bus stop, we decided to explore the streets of Bethlehem on our way back on foot. Bethlehem is certainly a vibrant place, so the streets were crowded with people going about their lives, shopping, eating, and interacting with one another. There are lots of places to eat everywhere, and the prices here are definitely less expensive than in Jerusalem. We certainly enjoyed spending some time in the Palestinian territory and our half-day trip to Bethlehem made for good memories.
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